Xtreme Heaters are the go-to solution for freeze protection in cold conditions, utilized in boat engine compartments, RV basements, under skirted RVs, pump houses, and backflow prevention enclosures.
In most cases, you really don't need to overanalyze how things are operating at the levels discussed below as our heaters have served well as a plug and play solution for over 20 years, long before inexpensive remote temperature logging was common. With these types of devises coming down in price, more customers are utilizing them to keep tabs on their valuable assets. We get it, some of our customers are "data geeks", and you know what? We are too! If you fall into that category and are willing to share your data with us, please reach out!
These days, more and more of our customers add remote temperature sensors to their installation to keep an eye on things however, to ensure these heaters work at their peak, understanding how to measure the temperature correctly within these spaces is important. Our freeze protection heaters are designed to activate at 40°F and deactivate at 50°F, but improper placement of temperature sensors can lead to confusion about the heater's operation. Let's delve into why sensor placement matters and how to ensure you're getting the most accurate readings.
Check Your Tolerances
Every measurement device has operational tolerances. The tighter the tolerance, the more accurate the device is. The tolerance for the thermostat on the Xtreme freeze protection heaters is +/-3 degrees Fahrenheit. It is the tightest tolerance available for this type of thermostat. What this means is that with a "On" temperature of 40F, the thermostat may turn on between 37F and 43F and with an "off" temperature of 55F, it may turn off between 52F and 58F.
Your measuring device also has a tolerance factor. Most consumer devices seem to be +/-5 degrees. Let's assume for a moment that your device is at -5 and your Xtreme Heater has a thermostat that is also on the low side and triggers at 37 degrees. What is 37-5? 32! Scary, right? But not necessarily accurate. This is why we chose to spend more money on the tightest tolerance thermostat we could buy and set the low side of the tolerance still well above freezing. We get calls every year with this type of scenario. Common questions include:
Q: My heater isn't turning on in time, it got to 32 degrees before it was triggered.
A: This could be a tolerance issue as mentioned above, or the temperature isn't being recorded at the thermostat. In a few cases, the heater has been positioned near something that gives off a little heat, such as a battery charger. So while it may be 32 in another spot, the thermostat thinks it's still above 40. Some people go by the outside temperature. Just because it's 32 outside the compartment, it takes time for the inside to drop to the same temperature.
Q: My heater isn't turning off, it just keeps running and it's over 70 degrees in the bilge!
A: We have fielded this question many times, and it always comes down to placement. In one case, after replacing a heater twice and testing the returns to find out they were fine, we finally figured out that the customer had placed the heater in such a way that it was pulling air from under the floor of the boat and outputting it into the engine space. The air under the floor was never being heated, so the thermostat simply wasn't sensing the 80 degree air in front of it, rather the 20 degree air behind it, and never shutting off. That was an extreme case (no pun intended), but we have encountered many cases where the air just wasn't circulating well due to heater placement. If you see warm spots of 60-70 degrees, it's probably fine. It's just taking longer to get to 55 where the thermostat is.
Q: It's 30 degrees out and I just took my heater out and plugged it in but it doesn't come on!
A: It takes time for the heater to acclimate. It is not an "instant read" type of thermostat. It is metal that takes a little time to react. That's why we suggest 45min to an hour in the freezer for testing, to make sure everything has acclimated to below freezing temperatures. Once place in the compartment and acclimated, it behaves as expected.
Understanding Heat Dynamics
-
Heat Rises: One fundamental aspect to grasp is that heat rises. If your heater is mounted low in a compartment, the warm air will naturally move upwards, often leaving the area around the heater's thermostat cooler than the top portion of the space.
-
Air Circulation: Effective air circulation is key for uniform heating. However, without proper circulation, there can be significant temperature variations within a small area, particularly in confined spaces like engine compartments or RV storage areas.
Common Misplacements of Sensors and Their Consequences
-
Sensor in Front of the Heater: Positioning the sensor directly in the heater's airflow means it will read higher temperatures than what the thermostat on the heater is sensing. This often leads to the sensor showing temperatures well above the shut-off point, confusing users when the heater doesn't turn off.
-
Sensor High Up: If the sensor is placed high up in the compartment, especially when the heater is low, you might see readings that don't reflect the actual temperature at the heater's level, again leading to misunderstandings about when the heater should cycle on or off.
Optimal Sensor Placement for Accurate Readings
To get a true sense of the temperature your heater is responding to:
-
Place a Sensor Behind the Heater: The thermostat, on the back of your Xtreme Heater, is what determines the on/off cycle. By placing a temperature sensor near or directly behind the heater, you'll measure the temperature that the heater's thermostat is sensing. This placement ensures you're receiving feedback on the exact conditions that dictate the heater's operation.
-
Consider Circulation: If possible, encourage or enhance air movement within the compartment. Place the heater where there is the most distance between the heater and the first obstacle that will deter air movement. Try to avoid pointing the heater at an object to heat, rather where the most air movement will be achieved. Better circulation leads to a more uniform temperature distribution, making your sensor readings more reliable and the heater more efficient.
Practical Tips for Sensor Placement
-
Use multiple sensors: Place one sensor near the thermostat as mentioned above and one or more sensors further away to get an idea of how well the air is circulating.
-
Testing: After placement, monitor the sensor readings alongside the heater's cycling to confirm that they align with the expected operational temperatures (40°F on, 50°F off). Heater operation will be visibly obvious if the software behind the sensors provide graphic results.
-
Experimentation: If initial readings still seem off, try adjusting the sensor positions to get a feel for where warm and cold spots may be and revisit heater placement and circulation if you feel some adjustments are necessary. Sometimes, even a few inches or a slight angle change can make a significant difference due to microclimates within the enclosure.
Wrap Up
Understanding and addressing the nuances of air circulation and heat distribution can significantly enhance your experience with Xtreme Heaters. By strategically placing your temperature sensors, you can gain accurate insights into the heater's performance, reducing confusion and ensuring your equipment in boat engine compartments, RV basements, under skirted RVs, pump houses, and backflow prevention enclosures remains protected from freeze damage throughout the colder months.
For more tips on using and maintaining your Xtreme Heater, or to explore our range of products designed for your specific needs, visit www.xtremeheaters.com. Stay informed, stay warm, and keep your adventures going strong!
